Yonah Main Face

As you approach the main face from the left side you come to the friction slab.  The army has placed a cable for getting up this slab but it is unnecessary.  Above the friction slab is a headwall that has a few short routes.

 

Toby Learns to Fly  5.9 F.A. Unknown

     Climb the crack in the obvious black streak on the center of the headwall above the friction slab. 

 

At the upper right end of the friction slab is the start of the army colored routes.  These climbs are all bolted with bolted belays.   These routes have traditionally been done in two pitches but will go in a single pitch with 60 meter ropes.  They are clearly marked with spray paint.  Hopefully we can eliminate the paint in the future.  This is a good area for beginning leaders.

 

Army Green Route  5.3

Army Blue Route  5.4

Army White Route  5.4

Army Red Route  5.4

Army Yellow Route  5.4

Army Orange Route  5.5

 

Between the Army colored routes and the Army numbered routes there are several established free climbs. 

 

Slip and Slide  5.5 F.F.A. Unknown

    Climb the water streak and crack system about 25 feet right of the Army orange route.

 

The Dihedral   5.6 F.F.A. Unknown

    Climb slab to right of right facing dihedral to intersect with dihedral and surmount buldge to ledge then step left and continue to two bolt belay.  Climb past one bolt up gray water streak to ledge just below the headwall and exit left by walking out ledge.  Optional 5.9+ exit by climbing thin seam up headwall at top of route.

 

The Army numbered routes start just right of the cable.  This cable leads to the top of the cliff and has a branch that runs along the top of these routes.  The cable is in need of maintenance so please exercise good judgment when anchoring to it.

 

Army Route 1  5.4

 

Army Route 2  5.5

 

Army Route 3  5.5

 

Army Route 4  5.5

 

Army Route 5  5.5

 

Army Route 6  5.5

 

Army Route 7  5.6

 

Army Route 8  5.6

 

Army Route 9  5.6

 

Army Route 10  5.6

 

To the right of the Army numbered routes you will find a few disjointed climbs.  Sections of these can be quite entertaining though.

 

Xanadu  5.5 or Grade 4 ice.  F.F.A. Unknown

   To the right of the Army numbered routes is the most obvious black streak on the mountain.  If there has been any recent rain it will be a virtual waterfall.  During extremely cold winters it has been known to freeze and is an ultra classic ice climb.

 

Balance Climbs  Up to 5.4 with hands and feet.

   To the right of Xanadu about 35 feet off the ground is a large smooth white friction slab.  This slab has about a dozen established no hands boulder problems that will test your balance to the max.

 

The civilian climbs start to the right of Xanadu and the balance climbs.  These problems all require some gear placements regardless of the number of bolts.  These are not sport climbs.  These are Yonah’s premier friction climbs.  All of these climbs can be pushed to the ledge below the Second overhang where you can walk off or do one of the overhang routes for a second short pitch.  Most folks rap off of one of the two bolted belay stations.

 

Soft Arches 5.6

     Climb the first big water streak over a series of small bulges trending right to a gear belay.   Traverse right to Afternnon Delight anchors or climb to ledge below the Second overhang.

 

Alternative Medicine 5.9 F.F.A. Michael Crowder

     Climb the second black streak  through two bolts to a gear belay or traverse right to Afternoon Delight anchors.

 

Variations 5.9 or 5.11 F.F.A. 5.9 variation C. Hall, F.F.A. 5.11 variation M. Crowder

      Awkward route that joins Stairway & Alt. Medicine.  Start on Stairway to Heaven and clip bolt.  For the 5.9 variation down climb to easier ground and traverse left to Alternative Medicine.  The 5.11 variation goes from the bolt directly to the second bolt on A. M.

 

Stairway to Heaven** 5.8  F.F.A. John Fain

     Climb the third black streak through either one or two bolts to gear belay.  To do the route in true style do not clip the Variations bolt, this bolt is only half a move off route.  Before the addition of this bolt and size 0 t.c.u.’s this was a serious route and can still get folks attention.

 

Obscured by the Clouds 5.9 F.F.A. Michael Crowder

     Start just left of afternoon flake. Climb through 2 bolts and traverse right to Afternoon Delight anchors.

 

Afternoon Delight** 5.11-  F.F.A. Dave Buck

    Climb to high point of large flake through 2 bolts to anchor.  Run out and sustained.

 

Kid Fears 5.11+

    Start off the right side of the Afternoon Flake and climb up through two bolts and zig right to third bolt and continue up black streak then traverse left to Afternoon Delight anchors.  The beginning of this route squeezes Afternoon pretty close.

 

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds (L.S.D.)** 5.10- F.F.A. C. Hall, M. Crowder

    Boulder up to ledge and climb through three bolts to anchor.

 

Special Edition 5.9 F.F.A.  Jody Jacobs

    Climb up white rock through two bolts to shared anchor with L.S.D.

 

Limited Edition* 5.8 F.F.A. John Fain

     Climb gray water streak to gear belay.

 

Edges to Ledges  5.7 F.F.A.  Unknown

     Start a few feet right of Limited Edition and follow the path of least resistance to the ledge below the second overhang.