Yonah
Main Face
As
you approach the main face from the left side you come to the friction slab.
The army has placed a cable for getting up this slab but it is
unnecessary. Above the friction
slab is a headwall that has a few short routes.
Toby
Learns to Fly 5.9
F.A. Unknown
Climb the crack in the obvious black streak on the center of the headwall
above the friction slab.
At
the upper right end of the friction slab is the start of the army colored
routes. These climbs are all bolted
with bolted belays. These
routes have traditionally been done in two pitches but will go in a single pitch
with 60 meter ropes. They are
clearly marked with spray paint. Hopefully
we can eliminate the paint in the future. This
is a good area for beginning leaders.
Army
Blue Route 5.4
Army
White Route
5.4
Army
Red Route
5.4
Army
Yellow Route
5.4
Army
Orange Route
5.5
Between the Army colored routes and the Army numbered routes there are several established free climbs.
Climb the water streak and crack system about 25 feet right of the Army orange route.
The Dihedral 5.6 F.F.A. Unknown
Climb slab to right of right facing dihedral to intersect with dihedral and surmount buldge to ledge then step left and continue to two bolt belay. Climb past one bolt up gray water streak to ledge just below the headwall and exit left by walking out ledge. Optional 5.9+ exit by climbing thin seam up headwall at top of route.
The
Army numbered routes start just right of the cable.
This cable leads to the top of the cliff and has a branch that runs along
the top of these routes. The cable
is in need of maintenance so please exercise good judgment when anchoring to it.
Army
Route 1
5.4
Army
Route 2
5.5
Army
Route 3
5.5
Army
Route 4
5.5
Army
Route 5
5.5
Army
Route 6
5.5
Army
Route 7
5.6
Army
Route 8
5.6
Army
Route 9
5.6
Army
Route 10
5.6
To
the right of the Army numbered routes you will find a few disjointed climbs.
Sections of these can be quite entertaining though.
To the right of the Army numbered routes is the most obvious black streak on the mountain. If there has been any recent rain it will be a virtual waterfall. During extremely cold winters it has been known to freeze and is an ultra classic ice climb.
Balance Climbs Up to 5.4 with hands and feet.
To the right of Xanadu about 35 feet off the ground is a large smooth white friction slab. This slab has about a dozen established no hands boulder problems that will test your balance to the max.
The
civilian climbs start to the right of Xanadu and the balance climbs.
These problems all require some gear placements regardless of the number
of bolts. These are not sport
climbs. These are Yonah’s premier
friction climbs. All of these
climbs can be pushed to the ledge below the Second overhang where you can walk
off or do one of the overhang routes for a second short pitch. Most folks rap off of one of the two bolted belay stations.
Soft
Arches
5.6
Climb the first big water streak over a series of small bulges trending
right to a gear belay. Traverse
right to Afternnon Delight anchors or climb to ledge below the Second overhang.
Alternative
Medicine
5.9 F.F.A. Michael Crowder
Climb the second black streak through
two bolts to a gear belay or traverse right to Afternoon Delight anchors.
Variations
5.9 or 5.11 F.F.A. 5.9 variation C. Hall, F.F.A. 5.11 variation M. Crowder
Awkward route that joins Stairway & Alt. Medicine.
Start on Stairway to Heaven and clip bolt.
For the 5.9 variation down climb to easier ground and traverse left to
Alternative Medicine. The 5.11
variation goes from the bolt directly to the second bolt on A. M.
Stairway
to Heaven**
5.8 F.F.A. John Fain
Climb the third black streak through either one or two bolts to gear
belay. To do the route in true
style do not clip the Variations bolt, this bolt is only half a move off route.
Before the addition of this bolt and size 0 t.c.u.’s this was a serious
route and can still get folks attention.
Obscured
by the Clouds
5.9 F.F.A. Michael Crowder
Start just left of afternoon flake. Climb through 2 bolts and traverse
right to Afternoon Delight anchors.
Afternoon
Delight**
5.11- F.F.A. Dave Buck
Climb to high point of large flake through 2 bolts to anchor.
Run out and sustained.
Kid
Fears
5.11+
Start off the right side of the Afternoon Flake and climb up through two
bolts and zig right to third bolt and continue up black streak then traverse
left to Afternoon Delight anchors. The
beginning of this route squeezes Afternoon pretty close.
Lucy
in the Sky with Diamonds (L.S.D.)**
5.10- F.F.A. C. Hall, M. Crowder
Boulder up to ledge and climb through three bolts to anchor.
Special
Edition
5.9 F.F.A. Jody Jacobs
Climb up white rock through two bolts to shared anchor with L.S.D.
Limited
Edition*
5.8 F.F.A. John Fain
Climb gray water streak to gear belay.
Edges
to Ledges
5.7 F.F.A. Unknown
Start a few feet right of Limited Edition and follow the path of least
resistance to the ledge below the second overhang.