CUSTOMIZING & INSTALLING TRIGGER

CUSTOMIZING & INSTALLING TRIGGERS

Seems like most advice I see to "permantly secure" a muzzle device to a short barrel to bring it up to legal length is to drill, pin then weld the pin in place. I dislike that solution as it damages the threads of your barrel, removes material from weakest an important area of barrel for accuracy and is darn difficult to undo. I much prefer the BATFE Approved method of four equidistant tack welds. If pin the barrel then welding the pin in is required so if welding anyway, lets not damage our threads or weaken our muzzle. We will discuss further the advantages and techniques to weld your muzzle device and then back up if ever need to swap devices which has been necessary for me several times.

HOW TO TACK WELD A MUZZLE DEVICE

As in most endeavors there are multiple ways to skin cats. My method may not be the best but it works for me, meets the letter of the law, is vers secure so that brakes/suppressor adaptors/suppressors do not ever turn loose, unscrew or other issues. There is no way to remove a properly tack welded device with the proper tools and some time. I start by test fitting my parts. I place a crush washer on some devices, others I don't. If the shoulder of barrel and device butt up against each other I use a washer. If the device has a shoulder that overlaps the barrel as in some suppressor adapters I do not. When use a washer I install device as if it were not going to be welded by tightening till crush washer is properly compressed. Then I use either a MIG or TIG welder to start puddling up a bead dead center of washer and let it flow. As the puddle grows and makes contact with both the barrel and device that weld is done. Now turn the barrel 90 degrees and repeat till have four equidistant welds at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 oclock positions of barrel. If pile one up or bubble gum it then can touch up a bit with a grinder but if thin it out too much remember to reweld to keep your weld job legal. All four welds have to make full contact with both barrel and device.

REMOVING A TACK WELDED DEVICE

With the proper tools removing a tack welded device is much easier than a blind pinned device. All thats needed is a die grinder or a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. Carefully take your cut-off wheel and cut into the weld right on top of crush washer until weld is totally severed. Be very careful not to cut into shoulder of barrel or muzzle device. Once all four tack welds are cut then it should not take significant force to remove device with proper tool. If have to lean on your tool may not have a weld cut completely. I find this much easier than grinding on a device to find a blind pin, drive the pin out then remove the device. Tihe best part is now you have a barrel that does not have damaged threads and thinned muzzle from drilling the pin location. Also a little careful touch-up grinding on shoulder of barrel and device after touching up finish that usually looks so good nobody can tell either were ever modified. Have one muzzle brake now welded for the third time and two berrels that have their second device attached with no visible damage or loss of accuracy/performance.

TACK WELDED SUPPRESSOR

Why would someone weld their suppressor to a rifle? My reason is to extend an under 16" barrel to its legal 16" minimum length without adding a second tax stamp to the rifle as and SBR. Any rifle with an under 16" overall barrel length must have either a BATFE Form 1 to build or buy a prebuilt SBR on Form 4. We have to get a stamp for the suppressor at $200 to begin the process and honestly I don't care to shoot an SBR without a can as its oppressively loud and has significant muzzle blast and can have some muzzle climb issues. If I am going to be putting a can on an SBR whenever I shoot it may as well leave it on. Sealed cans are generally less expensive than quick-change cans so I source inexpensive sealed suppressors and match to a barrel where overall length of the two exceeds 16" then if permanently attach the two your rifle only requires a single stamp for the suppressor instead of two stamps for an SBR plus the can. The $200 saved pays half the price of the next sealed suppressor for another one stamp rifle. Thats easy math for me and a lot less trouble getting two forms through the system.