Placing a permanent anchor in stone is serious business that must not be undertaken without serious forethought. The ethics involved should be considered before any anchor is placed. At many areas there are bolting bans, permit processes, unwritten local traditions or out right free for alls. Make sure you know the local scene before you go to slamming in bolts. Most of the bolts I see placed lately have one or more problems. Do it right or don't do it at all.
The ramifications of placing a permanent anchor are virtually permanent. I almost hesitate to publish this information but due to the high numbers of improperly placed anchors I have found over the years proper techniques need to be presented. Never add bolts to an existing route except to replace deteriorated ones. When you do this you must use the best stainless hardware possible and use proper installation procedures. The old anchors must be removed without damaging the stone and the hole patched.
Before bolting a "new" route do some research. Make absolutely sure that someone has not done it sans bolts in the past. Check regulations for bolting policy at the particular area and always discuss your ideas with the local climbers before you make a mistake. Use the best hardware possible and never use Asian made carbon steel anchors. U.S. made stainless hardware is generally preferred.
Do not use this information as your only source of bolting techniques. We can't cover everything and may actually make some mistakes. Please verify all information. We assume no responsibility for use of this information. Messing up the placement of a bolt may result in injury or death of yourself or subsequent climbers. Don't screw it up.
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