conditions 2003

2003/2004 s.e. ice Conditions

I am going to keep archiving all of the conditions for each year. I hope that after several years that I will be able to compare the data and notice trends to be better able to predict when we should have ice. I know betting on weather is goofy but it would be nice to know when the highest probability for local ice is so that I can plan my out of town trips when there are low probabilities of local ice and be at home when it should be good. If you have any additional info from journals or camera records please let me know. Even after the fact, more data is more better.

WEDNESDAY: 14 APRIL 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Some topropable verglass. This is the latest date which I was actually able to climb ice in Georgia.

NORTH CAROLINA

Hwy. 215: A little bouldering available

Graveyard: Some topropable verglass.

THURSDAY: 1 APRIL 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Some topropable verglass.

NORTH CAROLINA

Hwy. 215: A little bouldering available

Graveyard: Some topropable verglass.

TUESDAY: 24 FEBRUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The warm up has killed it. the only thing left standing are two boulder problems.

Yonah Mountain: Gone.

NORTH CAROLINA

Cedar Rock: No report.

Doughton Park: Big Daddy is thin but leadable. The upper routes are suffering but holding for the moment.

Winding Stair: A little ice but not enough to even be worth fooling with. Verglass with nothing that tops out.

Hwy. 215: Several leadable lines left but getting thin.

Graveyard: Best ice in the region at present.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Everything is very thin and not really worth any effort here.

TUESDAY: 17 FEBRUARY 2004

I WAS SWINGING IN NEW HAMPSHIRE LAST WEEK AND THE HOTEL PHONE SYSTEM DIDN'T LIKE EITHER MODEM SO I WASN'T ABLE TO DO ANY UPDATES BUT I AM BACK NOW!

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The melt freeze cycle has been tough here but several routes are standing and the bouldering is very good.

Yonah Mountain: North side very thin.

NORTH CAROLINA

Cedar Rock: No report.

Doughton Park: Big Daddy was in last weekend but crowds are still an issue.

Winding Stair: There was ice on the bottoms of the routes today but the top third of the climbs were nonexistent.

Hwy. 215: The lower wall only has two routes but the upper wall is in good shape.

Graveyard: Survived the warm temps mostly intact and is in great shape.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Everything is very thin and not really worth any effort here.

TENNESSEE

Roan Mountain: No new report

Sunset Park: Nada.

THURSDAY: 29 JANUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Conditions here have improved dramatically. Should be good climbing by the weekend.

Yonah Mountain: We climbed Xanadu on the main face this morning. Mixed conditions on first pitch and second pitch had 50 meters of very nice ice. One of the ice climbs on the army colored routes is almost touching. North face is getting decent also.

NORTH CAROLINA

No new reports since Sunday but it all should be improving.

TENNESSEE

No new reports since Sunday but it all should be improving.

MonDAY: 26 JANUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Got screwed by the heat. Only three routes left standing but everything was refreezing today.

Yonah Mountain: North side very thin.

NORTH CAROLINA

Cedar Rock: No report.

Doughton Park: Big Daddy is not in and the gulley was running but climbable. There were several of the shorter lines o.k. for top ropes. There were 23 climbers counted at one point on Saturday. Folks need to try exploring some other areas.

Winding Stair: We led 5 routes here on Saturday and lots more were toproped. Probably the best ice in N.C.

Hwy. 215: The ice had taken a beating in the heat but it was healing well. 5 inches of snow fell here on Sunday and only one party was climbing.

Graveyard: Survived the warm temps mostly intact and is improving.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Everything is thin except the top section above Scotch which is way fat with lots of short toprope possibilities. The upper column was touching on Mother Russia but the bottom pitch was very thin. Sympathy was also very thin.

TENNESSEE

Roan Mountain: At least 6 fat leadable lines in. nothing over 30 ft tall and be sure to bring your skis with you. Lots of snow.

Sunset Park: We managed to lead three mixed routes there on Thursday and boulder a couple of gullies. If it didn't rain on them Saturday they should be getting really fat by now.

SATURDAY: 17 JANUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: There were at least four routes led today and several top rope options. The recent heat has not done it any good and I think the rain is going to screw it.

Yonah Mountain: Actually had some decent ice north side on Wednesday but have not checked it out since then.

NORTH CAROLINA

Big Lost Cove: Closed Thursday for the falcons. Gotta wait till nest year. Didn't know ice climbing disturbed the birds. If they placed the nesting boxes in the middle of an ice climb I think the birds would have bigger problems than a few ice climbers.

Cedar Rock: No report.

Doughton Park: Big Daddy is not in and the gulley is running but climbable. There were several of the shorter lines o.k. for top ropes but with at least 20 climbers hacking and warm afternoon temps what little that was there got hacked all to heck.

Winding Stair: Very thin but lots of top rope possibilities. There was only one route led there this weekend and the culprit claims it was a mistake. There were lots of folks here.

Hwy. 215: There was climbable ice today but it was reported that rain started moving in during the afternoon and was starting to beat it down.

Graveyard: Hope it survives tonight's rain.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: No new report.

MONDAY: 12 JANUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The road reopened about 4:00 pm on Friday. The conditions here were better than anywhere else reported in the South. There were 7 separate routes led by 3 different leaders for at least 15 total lead climbs. With all the new wave bolted climbs this was the place to be.

Yonah Mountain: A few smears starting to form but nothing looks continuous.

NORTH CAROLINA

Big Lost Cove: The slab was thin but coming in.

Cedar Rock: Not yet.

Winding Stair: Very thin but lots of top rope possibilities. There was only one route led there this weekend and the culprit claims it was a mistake. There were lots of folks here.

Hwy. 215: A few leadable lines and many top rope options.

Graveyard: In good shape.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Not much but improving. Sympathy for the Devil and Mother Russia saw toprope ascents but not even the bold were willing to lead anything of any significance. Yellow Belly is the best line at present.

tHURSDAY: 8 JANUARY 2004

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Starting to come in. Its supposed to precipitate up there tonight and tomorrow so I anticipate the road closing before long.

NORTH CAROLINA

Big Lost Cove: No report.

Cedar Rock: Not yet.

Doughton Park: No report..

Winding Stair: Not yet.

Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes but it is getting better quickly.

Graveyard: Its coming back and will be good by Saturday.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Not much.

tHURSDAY: 1 JANUARY 2004

EVERYTHING HAS FALLEN OUT. THE BIG FLOOD WASHED IT ALL AWAY.

SUNDAY: 22 DECEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Lots of fat ice. Must swing area right now.

NORTH CAROLINA

Big Lost Cove: No report.

Doughton Park: Conditions are getting better with Big Daddy getting close.

Winding Stair: Nope

Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes.

Graveyard: The best climbing in the area.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Not much.

SATURDAY: 13 DECEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: some scratching but not real great.

NORTH CAROLINA

Big Lost Cove: Nope

Doughton Park: A little top ropeing but not much else. The gully and Big Daddy are not in.

Winding Stair: Nope

Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes. This area is not doing well this year.

Graveyard: The best climbing in the area.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Not a whole lot happening.

SUNDAY: 7 DECEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The temperature went way back down over the weekend and everything has really fattened up. There were eight separate lines led here this weekend by multiple parties. This place is a sure bet fro the next couple of days.

Yonah Mountain: A little verglass on the north face but nothing worth the walk.

NORTH CAROLINA

Doughton Park: There are several top ropeable lines but they are very thin and will not stand up to hoards of traffic. It is looking better so get ready. Big daddy is forming nicely and the gulley may be leadable in a couple of days. The drips on either side of the gulley are in.

Winding Stair: Not worth the drive. Not even any top ropes formed yet. The rain really cashed this place in.

Hwy. 215: There are a few very thin routes. They are so thin that any attempt as climbing them would probably destroy them.

Graveyard: The climbing here has improved and is well worth the approach.

Hwy. 221: No new report.

Whitesides: Sympathy for the Devil 2x2, a.k.a. Starshine had the first pitch washed away Thursday night. The upper pitch held on so watch for the bottom to return quickly. Scotch on the Rocks is in with the traditionally thin first pitch and the upper pitch is fat.

FRIDAY: 5 DECEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: Some rain came through last night and washed all of the bolted lines and mixed stuff away. Three fat routes survived the rain and it should be better tomorrow with Sunday and Monday looking for much improvement.

Yonah Mountain: Rain killed everything.

NORTH CAROLINA

Winding Stair: Rain got it too.

Hwy. 215: Rain got most of the routes but some hung on so look for improvements by Sunday.

Graveyard: Rain washed out a few of the routes but a few of the bigger ones stayed making for some decent top roping.

Hwy. 221: The road cut stuff and the creeks along this section of road are coming in and presently it is snowing and cold.

MONDAY: 1 DECEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The ice is starting to get fat. We managed to put up a new bolted line which gives another thin conditions leading option. If the weather holds we will be turning screws by mid-week.

Yonah Mountain: Xanadu and a few of the north face routes looked good on Saturday but Xanadu had dissapeared by Sunday. North face stuff was looking o.k. from the road.

NORTH CAROLINA

Winding Stair: Some bouldering and a couple of thin top ropeable lines.

Hwy. 215: Bouldering o.k. but no routes.

Graveyard: Was looking good until the Ranger showed up and ran everyone off. Just because the gate is unlocked does not mean the road is open. Be careful and walk when in doubt.

TUESDAY: 25 NOVEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The standard boulder problem was in and there were three top ropeable routes. It may hold through tomorrow morning but was looking bad already at 8:30 this morning..

NORTH CAROLINA

Winding Stair: Some bouldering this morning should improve by tomorrow.

SUNDAY: 16 NOVEMBER 2003

Georgia:

Hogpen Gap: The standard boulder problem was in and there were three topropeable routes. It all held through Saturday morning but is now gone.

NORTH CAROLINA

Hwy. 215: Some bouldering on Friday but nothing left on Saturday.

Graveyard Fields: Good bouldering Friday and Saturday. Sunday was a bust.

THE SEASON IS FINALLY STARTED. THIS IS THE LATEST I HAVE HAD TO WAIT FOR ICE IN YEARS. START SENDING IN REPORTS AND I'LL KEEP YOU ALL ABREAST OF WHAT IS IN GOOD SHAPE FOR THE THIRD YEAR STRAIGHT.

CONDITIONS ARCHIVE FROM THE WAY BACK MACHINE.....

WINTER 2017/2018 WINTER 2009/2010

WINTER 2008/2009 WINTER 2007/2008

WINTER 2006/2007 WINTER 2005/2006

WINTER 2004/2005 WINTER 2003/2004

WINTER 2002/2003 WINTER 2001/2002

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